The original Birkin bag -- yes, the one created by Hermes' Chief Executive Jean-Louis Dumas for Actor, Singer and Designer Jane Birkin in 1984 -- is listed for auction at Sotheby's Paris.
This has generated excitement among both fashion collectors and luxury connoisseurs.
The bag is more than an accessory -- it's a cultural artefact with an unusual story.
The very first Hermes Birkin bag
It was a chance encounter at 30,000 feet, says Wikipedia.
Jane Birkin boarded an Air France flight from Paris to London.
Fate placed her next to Jean-Louis Dumas, then executive chairman of Hermes.
Birkin, known for carrying a humble wicker basket, had just stashed it in the overhead compartment when its contents tumbled out.
She lamented to Dumas about the lack of a leather bag that was both stylish and practical enough for her needs as a young mother.
Inspired, Dumas pulled out an airsickness bag and sketched what would become one of fashion's most enduring icons: A supple leather tote, structured yet casual, deeply rooted in Hermes's equestrian aesthetic.
Three years later, the Birkin bag debuted -- a tribute to utility, luxury and a mid-air conversation.
The craft behind the iconic bags
Made by a single artisan over the course of up to 18 hours, every Birkin is a testament to Hermes' unwavering dedication to craftsmanship.
Artisans train for five years before they are entrusted with the task of constructing a Birkin.
Made in materials ranging from durable Togo leather to rare crocodile, ostrich and lizard skins, the bag's hardware is plated in 18-karat gold or palladium.
But it's not just the quality that creates the demand -- it's the exclusivity.
Birkins are notoriously difficult to obtain, often reserved for customers with established relationships and extensive purchase histories with Hermes boutiques.
Despite its unassuming origins, the Birkin has evolved into a symbol of wealth, power and taste -- flaunted by celebrities, sought after by collectors and subject to waitlists that span months, if not years.
Now, the Birkin that started it all -- Jane Birkin's black leather prototype; her initials 'JB' are etched into the leather -- is at the heart of Sotheby's 'Fashion Icons' sale.
Online bidding, which opened on June 26, 2025, will close on July 10.
Jane Birkin, known for her nonchalant style, sold the bag in 1994 at a charity auction to support AIDS research.
It eventually landed with Parisian collector and dealer Catherine Benier, who referred to it as 'the jewel in my collection.'
Sotheby's has kept the reserve price under wraps but experts speculate the bag could eclipse the current record for a Birkin $510,000 for a diamond-encrusted crocodile version sold in 2017.
Buying a Birkin isn't simply a matter of money. Customers hoping to buy one from a Hermes boutique must build a relationship with a sales associate, make multiple purchases across different product categories and demonstrate loyalty to the brand.
Even then, availability is unpredictable.
There's no official waitlist. Instead, clients are added to internal 'wish lists' and, if luck and timing align, may be offered a Birkin in their preferred size, leather and colour.
Patience and persistence are non-negotiable.
For those unwilling to wait, the resale market offers immediate gratification at a steep premium.
Resellers, auctions and luxury platforms provide access to authenticated Birkins, though prices can soar to triple the retail value depending on the bag's rarity and condition.
Why the Birkin remains unmatched
Hermes raised US prices across all categories in response to new EU import tariffs.
A Birkin 25 in Togo leather now costs 5 per cent more, adding another layer of exclusivity to an already elusive item.
Yet, even in a saturated luxury market, the Birkin endures -- not just as a bag, but as a statement.
It is as much a collector’s item as it is a status symbol and, now, thanks to Sotheby's, a chapter of fashion history is once again within reach... for the highest bidder.
From a spilled straw bag to the Sotheby's auction, the OG Birkin’s journey proves that legends are not always born in ateliers.
Sometimes, they begin at 30,000 feet, with a conversation and a quick sketch on a paper bag.
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